Sometimes a food review/article is to brag about a new find and to share the news. However, this time it’s not a scoop… it’s a reminder.
We recently headed out Westheimer toward Fulshear to Dozier’s Grocery & Market, Inc. to grab some peppered bacon for home and to see how the barbeque was after all of these years. We actually hadn’t been to Fulshear in nearly ten years. I guess that the first shock was that there’s a toll road (Westpark) almost all the way there. The trip only takes 20-30 minutes or so and is like driving downtown and parking for a restaurant. Other than a Subway, and ice cream store and a few fast food places (and Ray’s Country Gourmet down the street) not much has changed when you actually get to Fulshear. For over 50 years, Dozier’s has been there and serving barbeque. The picnic tables are still there under the trees and the resident cats are still wandering around the area hoping to befriend those of us who have chosen to eat out-of-doors picnic style.
Dozier’s Meat Counter
Scott Evans and his brother, Smedley, are still the owners (for the last 26 of its 50 years) and they have respected the traditions that were already in place when they bought it. It was originally owned by Ed Dozier. Part grocery store… part butcher shop… part barbeque restaurant, Dozier’s is a local treasure.
Jerky and Bacon
Dozier’s Selection of Pecan Smoked Sausage
In the meat counter are fresh U.S.D.A. Choice cuts of meat for purchase and I guess these are mostly sold to locals seeking quality meats. At most grocery stores today, one is restricted to the far ends of the meat butchering and grading system (either Prime… or Select). In most barbeque restaurants today, the brisket we buy is not U.S.D.A. Choice, like at Dozier’s., as barbeque is generally slow-cooked to submission for hours, so in many joints, cheaper cuts usually are cooked.
Dozier’s Peppered Bacon
The destination favorites for “to go” purchase at Dozier’s are Jerky (beef and turkey), sausages and their signature apple smoked bacon (peppered and regular). We made our historical purchases from our visits a decade ago… several pounds of the smoky bacon and some peppered jerky. At the writing of this article, a half-pound of the bacon is already gone as well as several duck eggs that we like to fry in the grease.
Barbeque Plate… Ribs, Brisket and Sausage
with Potato Salad and Beans
We decided on a combination plate (didn’t get the chicken… which is one of the most popular items there) with beef brisket, pork sausage and pork spare ribs. The sauce is smoky and slightly sweet and the serve-yourself condiment bar is loaded with sliced sweet onions, dill pickles and all other items we could have wanted. The plate is still served with standard sandwich-sliced white bread, which never gets unwrapped by me… but it’s there. The ribs are as good as ever, as well as was the sausage. All of the barbeque is seasoned with a Dozier’s signature rub before cooking and is smoked with Pecan wood. I have to talk about the brisket separately, though, as I really cannot remember ever having brisket this tender. Ever… and I have been complimented by my own guests as cooking the tenderest brisket that they have ever had. The difference here is embarrassing. In the past, if I had not ordered a combo plate, I would have just had the ribs. I’ve seen the light, though.
Here’s the secret to the brisket: Sally asked Scott Evans how long he smokes the brisket. His answer was “a long time”. When pressed for specifics, his answer was “a REALLY long time.” With all of that information, you can now do it yourself. If you don’t have his rub and a really long time, you might try the short drive to Fulshear. All items I’ve mentioned, however, may be bought on-line at:
Dozier’s Grocery & Market, Inc.
8222 FM 359
Fulshear, Texas 77441
Local Phone: 281-346-1411